In the pedestrian heart Bormio, among walls layered with centuries of history, even the most unassuming entrance, whether 16th-century, 19th-century or quietly modest, feels like a threshold to another world. Push open a door and an unexpected courtyard unfolds: vaulted spaces, hushed and timeless, once the centre of daily life, cellars and hidden passageways. Each one holds a different surprise. This sense of quiet discovery shapes Barbara Pelandini’s way of seeing Bormio. Through her personal selection of “hidden gem” addresses, she reveals a town where tradition, memory and beauty coexist effortlessly.
Where do you feel the true soul of the Bormio?
In its hidden courtyards and private interiors. Many houses still preserve ancient stube, with dark wood and intricate carvings. They speak of an alpine intimacy that’s becoming rare and incredibly precious.
A place that captures this atmosphere perfectly?
Emozioni, on Via Roma. It was once a pharmacy, and today it houses a beautifully preserved stube dismantled from a noble palazzo and reconstructed in its original form, complete with painted chests and decorations.
Breakfast staple and where to have it?
A stop at Pasticceria Sottovento is essential. It’s a small treasure box of Italian excellence: pastries by Sal De Riso, teas from La Via del Tè, Domori chocolate, used for an unforgettable hot chocolate, and the artisanal cakes of Elia Vitalini.
A favourite restaurant and a must-order dish?
Trattoria Compagnoni feels like home. It’s run by three sisters: one in the kitchen and two in the dining room who carry on their mother’s legacy. The sciatt, made fresh to order, are unforgettable. Sitting in the old stube by the window makes the experience even more special.
Another spot you love for a relaxed meal?
Hotel Genzianella. You might stop for an aperitivo and end up staying for dinner, sharing bresaola, local cheeses, sciatt and game dishes. Their tagliolini are an absolute benchmark.
A traditional dish not to miss in Bormio?
Pizzoccheri at Trattoria Bajona. It’s one of those places where tradition is taken very seriously.
A special souvenir to take home?
Something repaired or simply witnessed at Donato Romani’s workshop. He’s the last shoemaker in Valtellina, working with gestures that belong to another time. Watching him restore shoes and bags is like observing a living piece of heritage.
A drink that truly belongs to Bormio?
Braulio, without question. Its secret recipe and the herbs gathered in the surrounding mountains tell the story of the territory. Visiting the cellars is like stepping into the town’s collective memory.
Where do you go for something sweet in the afternoon?
Back to Pasticceria Sottovento, or across the street to Pasticche Brielli, still proudly displaying its diploma from the 1925 International Exhibition—a reminder of its long tradition of handcrafted sweets.
A place that feels timeless, even today?
The Terme di Bormio. Even if you’re not a spa lover, you sense something ancient and almost ritual there, deeply connected to the history of Valtellina.
Any other addresses to note down?
La Rasiga, for its ancient stube and the village’s natural water spring, and Vicolo Piazzi, where dining under historic vaulted ceilings becomes an experience in itself.
How is Bormio changing today?
It may be preparing for major sporting events, but it still feels intimate. New infrastructure stands beside memories of historic hotels like Sartorelli and Pirovano, from the days when people skied on the Stelvio even in summer.