Take a dive into the Egadi Islands, an azure and green Eden in the Tyrrhenian Sea, just seven kilometers off Sicily’s western coast. Described as a “butterfly on the sea” by painter Salvatore Fiume, and speculated to be the Homeric island of Circe or perhaps the home of the nymph Calypso, Favignana is the largest of this UNESCO-listed archipelago. Along with Marettimo, Levanzo, Formica, and a few scattered islets, it forms part of Italy’s largest Marine Protected Area.
These islands bear witness to the legacy of the Florio family, a dynasty immortalized in the novels of Trapani-born writer Stefania Auci. The Florios arrived in the Egadi in 1841, leaving an indelible mark with their grand villas, the historic tonnare (tuna fisheries) of Favignana and Formica, and the vast vineyards of their masseria in Levanzo. Their entrepreneurial empire made them one of Italy’s wealthiest families—until their decline in the late 1920s. Today, visitors can trace their influence along La Via dei Florio, an itinerary launched in 2023 to celebrate the family’s cultural and historical contributions. Key stops include the imposing Ex Stabilimento Florio in Favignana—now a museum and a former cathedral of tuna fishing rituals—where Roman warship rams, recovered from the seabed near Levanzo, recount the epic naval battle that won Rome the First Punic War in 242 B.C. Another must-visit is Palazzo Florio, set to showcase a restored gown belonging to Donna Franca Florio (wife of Ignazio Florio Jr.), famously painted by Giovanni Boldini, thanks to the support of the Prada Foundation.
Beyond history, nature takes center stage. In Favignana, Il Giardino dell’Impossibile, a lush four-hectare botanical wonderland built into ancient tuff quarries, offers a verdant escape with nearly 500 plant species, lovingly maintained by Nino Campo. Meanwhile, the turquoise shades of the surrounding sea invite endless swims in coves like Cala Rossa and Cala Azzurra, easily reachable by bike or boat—perhaps with Mare and More Tour, which also offers excursions to Marettimo and Levanzo.
For a moment of relaxation, head to I Pretti, a former sardine processing plant turned elegant resort with a panoramic terrace overlooking the Gulf of Favignana. And don’t forget the vibrant summer events: from the Festival del Noir Mediterraneo in Favignana, curated by writer and screenwriter Giancarlo De Cataldo, to the Marettimo Italian Film Fest, now in its fifth edition, celebrating Italian cinema and the sea.
Did you know?
The name Egadi comes from the Greek Aigatai, meaning island of the goats, while Favignana is named after favonius, the warm western wind that sweeps across the island.
