The Splendido in Portofino is a little more than just a beautiful hotel when seen in relation to the Ligurian town. Their stories have long intertwined with a certain graceful rivalry, looking up and down at one another ever since one was a Benedictine monastery and the other a humble fishing village. The five-star’s suites open onto poetic glimpses of the little harbor, framed by green mountains, and from below, one can see, imagine, and dream of the jet-set life unfolding on those magnificent flowered terraces.
Years have passed in this idyllic relationship. And through all these years, Portofino has—thankfully—remained unchanged, while Lo Splendido—also thankfully—has continued to evolve, renewing itself in step with the tastes and needs of its illustrious guests. Since joining Belmond, now part of the LVMH group, the hotel has, detail by detail, ascended to the heights of global hospitality.
After all, a hotel is a living organism, made of people, for people—and the pursuit of perfection is embedded in Belmond’s DNA. So there’s always something new. Since 2023, a phased yet substantial renovation has been underway with the renowned Swedish architect Martin Brudnizki. First came the pool, with orange parasols and blue towels among the olive trees, the grill, and the Baronessa Suite, inspired by the area’s noble palaces. Then came the lobby, and this year it’s the turn of the rooms—light-coloured, airy furnishings, wicker finishes. Bar Baratta Sedici is adorned with floral trompe l’oeil of soft climbing vines, cushions trimmed with passementerie. And the spa is the first in Italy by Dior, a small sanctuary of self-care, with cutting-edge treatments, natural products (including a shea-butter bar with different scents), and a tempting make-up area. Like a set of Russian dolls, each space reveals another unexpected one—here it’s the rooftop relaxation area, with the distinctive green Toile de Jouy screens, towels, and tiles.
Brudnizki also studied the interiors of Villa Beatrice, the new satellite of the Belmond universe in Portofino, inaugurated in July 2025. Formerly Castello Odero, the domain was designed by Florentine architect and decorator Gino Coppedè in 1913, and still preserves its original frescoes, antiques, and artworks. It now serves as a private retreat for exclusive use, with breathtaking views and a private path down to the sea—an authentic privilege, as anyone who knows the Ligurian Riviera will tell you.
Belmond now boasts nine five-star luxury properties in Italy, from the legendary Cipriani in Venice—currently undergoing a multi-phase Peter Marino renovation—to Villa Sant’Andrea in Taormina, where just last year an innovative beach club was launched, bringing life to the shore from early morning yoga to moonlit cinema. This year, it’s been Caruso’s turn—another piece of the history of Italian villeggiatura*. Amid blooming gardens, terraces, and arcades, the landmark hotel in Ravello, perched—or rather, suspended—over the Amalfi Coast and embraced by the Monti Lattari, is famous for its infinity pool that seems to float on the sea below. Today, the area around has been reimagined as the private club La Piscina, offering activities from sight-jogging to poetry readings to astronomy lessons. But for those who prefer, there’s always the option of a creative ozio** under a lemon yellow parasol with a crossword puzzle (courtesy of the lifeguard, along with Amalfi lemon water and sunscreen), a custom Monopoly, and a break at the Caruso Grill. The menu is playful, unapologetically Neapolitan, and, most of all, yummy: fried seafood, eggplant parmigiana, braided buffalo mozzarella, and tomatoes fresh from the garden. And even when hunger is fully satisfied (the portions are generous), turning down the Delizia al Limone, the Amalfi Coast’s signature dessert, is simply not an option. A delight in name (this is what “Delizia” means) and in every bite.
Close to glamorous destinations such as Positano and Capri, and world-famous archaeological sites like Pompeii, Caruso not only offers breathtaking views of the Amalfi Coast, but also brings you closer to its shimmering waters aboard the elegant Gozzo Aprea vessel—creating memories of that “dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there but becomes beckoningly real after you have gone” (John Steinbeck, 1953).
If the intimacy of this restored 11th-century palace with just 50 rooms isn’t enough, Villa Margherita—just a few steps away in the same lush garden—offers a separate two-bedroom retreat for up to eight guests.
INFO
Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino
Caruso, A Belmond Hotel, Amalfi Coast
Useful words
* VILLEGGIATURA
vil·leg·gia·tu·ra (noun, Italian)
Pronunciation: /vil-ledʒ-dʒa-ˈtu-ra/
An extended stay in the countryside, seaside, or a resort area, typically during the summer months, for relaxation, leisure, and escape from urban life. Historically associated with the aristocratic or bourgeois tradition of seasonal retreats in Italy.
** OZIO
ò·zio (noun, Italian)
Pronunciation: /ˈɔ.t͡sjo/
Used in refined or literary settings to describe a kind of elevated idleness—not mere inactivity, but a deliberate pause from the demands of daily life.