How to recognise a good panettone? Listen up. Panettone, originally from Milan and synonymous with Christmas, is now expertly crafted throughout Italy, enjoyed not only during the holiday season. A true artisanal panettone is not defined by being handmade but by its use of the highest-quality ingredients, free of preservatives, emulsifiers, artificial flavors, additives, or pre-processed components. In addition to natural sourdough starter (lievito madre), it must include fresh eggs, fresh butter, flour from Italian mills, Italian candied fruits, sugar, Italian honey, and premium-quality nuts. A proper panettone should have a rounded dome with a cross-cut, a golden-brown exterior, and a vibrant yellow interior, reflecting its richness in eggs and butter. The aroma combines the delicate fragrances of raisins, apples, citron, orange, and flour, free of alcohol or sulfite traces. The texture is equally crucial: the dough should have evenly distributed oval air pockets, be neither sticky nor overly moist, and should flake apart softly in threads rather than crumble. Irregularly sized candied fruit pieces are a hallmark of quality, and if the cake slightly separates from its paper mould, it indicates perfect leavening. Below you’ll find a selection, from North to South, of some of the best panettone creations chosen by renowned food journalist Luigi Cremona
1
Pasticceria Natural Sweets by Claudio Gatti, Emilia Romagna
Claudio Gatti, a master pastry chef and winner of the 2023 World Panettone Championship, crafts various innovative versions of the classic panettone. Among them are a decadent panettone with Chantilly cream, lactose-free options, and unique flavours like mandarin or limoncello. He also creates gluten-free panettone using sourdough and rice flour, enriched with creams or candied fruit. All versions are marked by a balance of lightness and flavour. WEBSITE
2
La Panetteria di Parabiago by Matteo Cunsolo, MILANO
Matteo Cunsolo, President of the Bakers’ Association, is known for his inventive “Panettone in Viaggio Limited Edition,” featuring Colombian chocolate and Japanese wasabi, limited to 50 numbered pieces. For 2024, he has introduced a “solidarity panettone” made with four chocolates—dark, white, milk, and ruby—with fruity notes, donating half of the proceeds to a cooperative aiding children and people with disabilities. Another innovation is his gin-infused panettone. WEBSITE
3
Olivieri 1882, Arzignano
The Olivieri family, bakers since 1882, recently joined the pastry elite. Their fluffy panettone earned the 2024 Soft Gold Award from The New York Times. Nicola Olivieri’s dough is delicate, almost resembling cotton candy in its lightness, with a rich and buttery taste. Their Arzignano location, combining a kitchen, lab, pizzeria, and pastry shop with a striking black-and-white design, is a must-visit. WEBSITE
4
Casa Mastroianni by Pasquale Iannelli, Calabria
Located in Lamezia Terme, Pasquale Iannelli’s chocolate panettone is among Italy’s finest and was named “Best in the World” in November 2024. This accolade celebrates the artisan quality and dedication of the historic Calabrian pastry shop. WEBSITE
5
Salvatore Tortora, Naples
First-place winner of the 2021 Panettone World Cup in Lugano, Salvatore Tortora’s traditional panettone continues to be recognised as an exceptional product. Tortora, a master pastry chef and creator of the “Espresso Napoletano” concept, offers products that blend the diverse culinary traditions of Campania. His concept is showcased in locations across Campania and Menton, France. WEBSITE
6
Pasticceria Mascolo, Visciano
Giuseppe Mascolo, a member of the Italian Academy of Sourdough Masters and Panettone Artisans, won the World Cup with his soft, fragrant panettone featuring the rich flavours of butter and candied fruit. Two years ago, he refined his sourdough management and fermentation methods, making the promotion of sourdough culture his priority. His traditional dough, fermented for four hours, combines sourdough, sugar, creamery butter, and flavors of vanilla, orange zest, and lemon zest for a delectable result. WEBSITE
7
Pasticceria Memmolo, Mirabella Eclano
At the third Panettone World Cup, pastry chef Annibale Memmolo’s chocolate panettone was awarded as the best. Its dough combines cocoa mass and hazelnut paste, with fillings of 61% dark chocolate and 35% milk chocolate, finely chopped for even distribution. Memmolo is also proud of his “panannurca” panettone, featuring candied Annurca apples, ricotta blended with almonds, and a hint of cinnamon for a delicate flavour. WEBSITE
8
Ferretti Dessert by Sandro Ferretti, Mosciano
For over 15 years, Ferretti Dessert has been a hallmark of Italian pastry-making. Sandro Ferretti’s panettone, especially his version made with extra virgin olive oil, recently won the 2024 “Best EVOO Panettone in Italy” competition. Soft and fragrant, it combines candied orange with the essence of a traditional Italian Christmas dessert. WEBSITE
9
Pasticceria Ferrante, Genoa
Massimo and Stefano Ferrante of Ferrante Pasticceria in Campomorone, near Genoa, specialise in a lemon and caramelised chocolate panettone. Renowned for its perfect dome and aromatic, visually appealing internal texture, their panettoni reflect years of passionate dedication and has secured their place among Italy’s finest pastry chefs. WEBSITE
10
Pasticceria Roberto, Erbusco
Giovanni Cavalleri, an award-winning pastry chef and owner of Pasticceria Roberto, emphasizes the classic panettone. His panettone is soft and fragrant, with a glassy dome, prepared strictly according to traditional methods using sourdough, selected flours, fresh eggs, Tahitian and Madagascan vanilla, and high-quality butter, without preservatives. Long fermentation ensures lightness and an airy texture, while candied orange and enveloping vanilla make it unmistakable from the first bite. WEBSITE
11
Pasticceria Lombardi, Maddaloni (2023 World Champion)
Pasticceria Lombardi, Maddaloni (2023 World Champion)Aniello Di Caprio, originally from Milan but now a Campania resident, is one of the masters of Italian leavened products. His panettone features a simple dough enhanced by candied fruit, rum-soaked raisins, and citrus zest from untreated peels. As Di Caprio says, “You must approach the modern through the classic.” He also patented the “Felix” panettone, a Campanian specialty made with buffalo butter, Vesuvian apricots, and almond paste infused with Amalfi lemon—key elements of the region. WEBSISTE
