In Italy, food isn’t just nourishment—it’s ritual, nostalgia, and an art form. One of the most cherished Italian traditions is la merenda, an afternoon snack that has been a part of daily life for generations. While in many cultures snacking might seem like a casual affair, in Italy, merenda is a meaningful pause, a time to recharge, and a comforting connection to childhood. Merenda actually comes from the Latin merere, meaning “to deserve.” And truly, after a long day of school or an afternoon of work, every Italian—young or old—deserves a delicious break. Traditionally enjoyed between 4:00 and 6:00 PM, merenda was first and foremost a childhood ritual. Italian grandmothers and mothers would serve up simple yet wholesome treats: Imagine warm milk and biscuits or bread and nutella. As Italians grow older, merenda evolves into a more refined pleasure, often consisting of a pastry and coffee—a moment to slow down and indulge in the simple joys of life. Whether it’s a perfectly flakey cornetto, a creamy cannolo, or a rich slice of torta della nonna, merenda remains an essential part of the Italian lifestyle.
Before we delve into our favourite places to have merenda in Italy, let’s chat about the origins of Merenda. La Merenda has deep historical roots tied to the House of Savoy (I Savoia). Originating in the royal courts of Piedmont, Merenda was a light afternoon snack enjoyed by nobility, often consisting of bread, butter, and chocolate or other local delicacies. The tradition gained popularity among the aristocracy evolving into a refined ritual featuring pastries, biscuits, and hot beverages like bicerin—a Turin specialty made with espresso, chocolate, and cream. The 19th century saw the birth of La Merenda Sinoira, a precursor to the modern Italian aperitivo, which began as a hearty afternoon snack for farmers and laborers, who needed sustenance before the late evening dinner. Over time, the custom was embraced by the aristocracy, including the Savoy court, where it evolved into a more elaborate affair.
So where should you go to experience the best merenda in Italy? Here are some of the most iconic cafés to enjoy an afternoon treat.
Caffè Florian, Venezia: Founded in 1720, this is the most romantic and historic café in Venice. Sitting under the frescoed ceilings with a hot chocolate and a zaletto biscotto (a Venetian cornmeal cookie) is the epitome of indulgence.
Caffè Al Bicerin, Torino: The birthplace of Bicerin, Turin’s signature drink made of espresso, chocolate, and cream, this café is a dream for merenda lovers. Order a Bicerin with a gianduja chocolate pastry for a rich and warming afternoon treat.
Pasticceria Marchesi, Milano: A Milanese institution since 1824, Marchesi is luxury in pastry form. Their cannoncini filled with zabaione, paired with a cappuccino, is a flawless afternoon pick-me-up. The pastel-hued interiors and impeccable service make it a true Milanese merenda experience.
Caffè Gilli, Firenze: Dating back to 1733, Caffè Gilli is Florence’s oldest café, and it remains the place to indulge in a truly elegant merenda. The chandeliers, frescoed ceilings, and old-world charm set the stage for a perfect espresso and a slice of their legendary Sacher Torte or Millefoglie.
Regoli Pasticceria, Roma: A hidden gem in Rome, Regoli is your traditional pasticceria. Try their Maritozzo con la Panna, a soft brioche filled with fresh whipped cream, or their decadent bignè alla crema. Pair it with a strong Italian espresso for the ultimate Roman merenda.
Gran Caffè Gambrinus, Napoli: This historic café, dating back to 1860, is where Naples’ intellectuals and artists once gathered. The sfogliatella riccia, a crisp and flaky pastry filled with ricotta, is an absolute must. Pair it with a Neapolitan-style caffè sospeso, and you’re living like a true local.
Caffè Sicilia , Noto, Sicilia: Run by the legendary pastry chef Corrado Assenza, this Sicilian gem is heaven for lovers of granita and cannoli. Their almond granita with a warm brioche is a game-changer for those looking for a refreshing merenda in the Sicilian sun.
