Everybody knows Venice, Florence, Rome and millions of people have visited them or wish to visit them. Of course, they are incredible cities that evoke history, charm, culture, art. In fact, they are so beautiful and well-appreciated that they suffer from the phenomenon of “overtourism”, the excess of tourism; as happened in Venice in 2019, so much so that the authorities began to think about putting a limit to visits. But there is more to Italy; it’s not just about the big, fascinating cities. it is very rich in less famous but equally beautiful towns, with medieval architecture and an exquisite gastronomy. Here are five you must add to your bucket list, and know there are many more where these come from:
1
Ivrea, piedmont
The capital of the Canavese, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ivrea is a small, ancient city, closely linked with the history of Olivetti. Cozy and elegant, it has an ancient historic center which is also where the “Battle of the oranges” takes place during carnival. It is pleasant to walk among squares and ancient streets from the Duomo of S. Maria Assunta, Cathedral that dates back to the 4th Century, to Piazza Castello, a square surrounded by the bell towers of the Cathedral, the Bishopric, the Capitular Cloister and the Giacosa Theater. The city is dominated by an important castle from the end of the 14th century, but what is truly unique is the MAAM, an open air museum of the modern architecture of Ivrea, connected to Olivetti’s cultural commitment in various fields. There is no shortage of excellent hotels and restaurants: fall asleep among the vineyards at Vigna del Belvedere, surrounded by “historic” vineyards where Kin is produced, an exceptional Erbaluce di Caluso grape.
2
Vigevano, lombardy
The heart of this small city, one of the most beautiful places in Italy, is attributed to Bramante and to Leonardo da Vinci; we’re talking about Piazza Ducale, a square from the end of the 15th century where everything is elegant and harmonious, antechamber to the nearby Visconti-Sforza Castle, one of the largest in Europe. But besides the square and the castle, just take a stroll through the center to experience a refined, provincial atmosphere. Explore the many artisan shops, elegant cafes, but also the cultural scene: the Shoe Museum is noteworthy, where you experience the evolution of footwear from the 15th century to the 70s. Also try the regional cuisine in one of the many excellent restaurants such as I Castagni, high level local cuisine. L’Oca Ciuca, a gourmet-type bistro, Villa Necchi, for an elegant and refined cuisine.
3
Carrara, tuscany
Renowned for its marble it is, however, less known for its architectural beauties: clouded, perhaps, by the nearby Versilia, Pietrasanta, Lucca and Pisa. Of course, the famous marble is its soul: historical, cultural, commercial and landscape, just look at the splendid Apuan Alps that form the background to realise this. The heart of the city is Piazza Alberica with a pavement that seems like a sample of Apuan marbles. In the center, the statue of Beatrice D’Este. Not far away is the Romanesque-Gothic Cathedral of S. Andrea; the Teatro degli Animosi, the modern fountain in Piazza d’Armi. A ‘must’ visit is the CARMI, the Carrara and Michelangelo museum that depicts the close link between the city and the great artist. The cultural heart is the Academy of Fine Arts, inaugurated 250 years ago and today houses the university. But the city must be discovered, walking among its laboratories and artisan shops, in the narrow streets of the center and near suburbs. Ciccio Marina, located in the pleasant seaside suburb of Marina di Carrara is one of the best restaurants for local fish.
4
Benevento, campania
Lombard, Norman and later papal enclave for centuries, the atmosphere of the city is affected by its heritage. Rome has left a large trace there with the Arch of Trajan, the Greek Theatre and the church of Santa Sofia, but it is the papal domain that today is felt most from an architectural point of view. Beautiful is Palazzo Paolo V, along the central Corso Garibaldi. A splendid late 16th century structure that has many features of mannerist architecture. The summary of Benevento’s heritage can be portrayed through the Rocca di Rectors: it is in fact the result of several buildings “assembled” and reunited from various periods, from the Romans to the Samnites to the Middle Ages. Do not miss the Cathedral and the Sannio museum with the cloister of Santa Sofia. In the city you can dine very well at Cocotte Osteria Mediterranea, where Antonio Jacoviello offers many unique dishes such as taglioni asparagus and vanilla. Also, about half an hour by car, in Telese Terna Krèsios, where Michelin starred chef Giuseppe Iannotti elaborates fine cuisine.
5
Città della Pieve, umbria
Città della Pieve is a case history. Until recently no one really know about it. Is it Tuscany or is it Umbria Well, it’s a little bit of both. It has the telephone area code of the first, but it belongs to the second. In its countryside many foreigners, who were looking for an alternative to the inflated Chianti, bought and renovated farmhouses. And that’s how the very small, international community was born here, with scientists, writers, journalists and artists who moved to live among hills, fields and woods, in the search of a more sustainable life, between a coffee at the village bar and a visit to the oratory of Santa Maria dei Bianchi to admire the Adoration of the Magi by Perugino, a Renaissance master born here. And there is so much more. Bulgari has opened the Fibonacci natural wine shop in a semi-pedestrian square in the medieval center and has just inaugurated a second restaurant.
Livia and Colin Firth have a home here. She, a native of the place and supporter of ethical fashion with the Eco Age brand and the Green Carpet Fashion Awards, has become the testimonial of a natural and responsible lifestyle. Following her on her Instagram, one senses that today being in the countryside is a more “glamorous” choice than a red carpet catwalk. Even her brother Alessandro Giuggioli, film producer and actor, finds more satisfaction in the role of the young farmer with the Quinto Sapore organic farm (open to visitors) and a fruit and vegetable shop in the center. Today, buying a tomato that tastes like tomato is more important than owning a designer T-shirt.
Here you can stay in one of the three apartments at Pieve Suites managed by Anne Hanley, English, and collaborator of The Telegraph and garden designer. Or at the Hotel Vannucci, owned by entrepreneur Roberto Wirth, who also owns the historic and very luxurious Hassler of Rome. If he has invested there, there must be some reason.
6
Recanati, marche
Usually, students, as soon as they can, throw out old school books on which they have sweated and suffered. But Giacomo Leopardi makes an exception. Olimpia Leopardi, niece of Giacomo Leopardi, who still lives in the family palace in Recanati, says “Zio Giacomo knew how to explain his often painful feelings better than any of us”. It is thanks to the her if the palace is always in order and if the visits are accompanied by trained guides. Last June she inaugurated the “Ove abitai child” itinerary which includes some halls, a garden and the private rooms of Giacomo and his brother Carlo. From the Leopardian Studies Center, where the archives are also kept, you can access the Garden overlooking the Ermo Colle and the infinite horizon of the Marche. Giacomo, as everyone calls him confidentially, had an extraordinary relationship with his territory, his source of inspiration. Another great master who lived and worked in Recanati was the painter Lorenzo Lotto, whose works are kept in Villa Colloredo Mels, and among these, there’s the Annunciation with the cat terrified by the archangel of 1534. A true masterpiece. Last summer, at the height of the season, it was difficult to find a place to stay in Recanati, but one place to keep in mind is the Gallery hotel, the most elegant. On the other hand, the location of the village is very strategic, especially for heading down to the sea in Porto Recanati or going for a hike on the Sibillini Mountains.
7
SambucA, sicily
Sambuca di Sicilia in the Belice Valley looked like a ghost town. So much so that in 2019 Leo Ciaccio, mayor of the village, one of the “most beautiful in Italy” announced in the newspapers and on TV the sale of some houses in the historic center for 1 euro; and in a flash there were 100,000 emails and just as many visitors. Already in 2018, with the project for the recovery of abandoned villages, Airbnb had taken over a wing of Casa Panitteri, to be converted to hospitality: with the design furnishings by Eligo Studio and the frescoes by Edoardo Piermattei. The result was an original, modern apartment that one could rent for both short and longer stays. The profits were entirely donated to the cultural activities of Sambuca, including the Archaeological Museum, 2 other museums located within the same building and an underground cellar with an exhibition of the renowned reds of the area.
It is a surreal corner of Sicily, which ranges from the millennial vision of the Valley of the Temples to the contemporary amazement of the Great Cretto created by Alberto Burri between 1984 and 1989. The work, the largest of land art in Europe, is a pour of white concrete on the urban plan of Gibellina demolished by the 1968 earthquake. A scenography perfectly integrated into the landscape, where flocks and theater companies alternate.