Horto, Milano


13 May 2025
Written by
Lucrezia Worthington

Where innovation and mindfulness meet


Horto is a Michelin-starred and Green Star-awarded restaurant in central Milan that blends culinary excellence with a strong ethical philosophy. Inspired by the medieval Horti Conclusi, enclosed monastic gardens, Horto is a contemporary sanctuary for sustainable dining. When renowned chef Norbert Niederkofler took the helm as culinary director, he brought his mountain-born philosophy Cook the Mountain into the urban context, adapting it into what he calls L’ora etica (“The Ethical Hour”). This approach ensures that all ingredients are sourced within a 1 to 1.5-hour radius of Milan, supporting local producers and minimising environmental impact.

Open since September 2022, Horto embraces a zero-waste philosophy, making full use of every part of each ingredient. The seasonal menu offers five- or seven-course tasting journeys, with options that are vegetarian, lake-inspired, or a mix of local meat, fish, and vegetables. Standout dishes include Dagli Orti di Gea, a spring, veggie-focused appetiser; Spaghettoni with eel, fresh peas and black lemon and a delicate apple-based dessert. The carefully curated wine list features selections from small Lombard producers alongside international labels, further reinforcing the restaurant’s local-first ethos.

Located on the rooftop of The Medelan, a historic building recently restored in central Milan, Horto offers a striking setting. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the dining room provide sweeping views of the city skyline. The interiors, designed by GLA (Genius Loci Architettura), are aligned with the restaurant’s values, using natural and repurposed materials such as rice paste (a byproduct of rice processing) for wall finishes and reclaimed wood from old vinegar barrels for flooring. The terrace, designed by architect Raffaella Colombo, functions as a living, evolving green space where guests can enjoy aperitifs or dine al fresco. Colombo’s concept allows the landscape to follow natural cycles, showcasing botanical harmony and seasonal transformation, even including dormancy and decay as part of its beauty.

Beyond lunch and dinner, Horto is open all day. Guests can start their morning with a coffee and a Veneziana brioche or return at sunset for a refined aperitivo. Highlights include cocktails paired with flatbread topped with prosciutto crudo and goat robiola, or aged Parmesan crisps.

Risotto with wild herbs and kefir by Christian Bazzo


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