As the sun dips behind the mountains, the forest, ablaze with fall colors, echoes with a deep, resonant sound. It’s the unmistakable call of love—the bramito, the bellowing sound made by male deer competing to attract mates in early autumn. This “sonic weapon” determines the victor, as the male with the loudest and most intense call asserts his power, signaling to other males to stay away.

We’re in Val di Rèzzalo, nestled within Stelvio National Park, one of the best spots in the Alps to witness this deer mating ritual, which can be observed until early November. The area is accessible by a half-hour drive followed by a gentle uphill trail from Bormio, one of Italy’s top mountain destinations in Alta Valtellina.

Beyond Ski Slopes

Set in a wide, sunlit valley among the peaks, Bormio is famous not only for its legendary ski runs—like the renowned Stelvio, one of the world’s most technical and breathtaking ski tracks, often called the “Teatro alla Scala of Alpine skiing.” For 40 years, it has hosted major skiing events, and it’s set to host the Winter Olympics in February 2026. Besides skiing, Bormio offers numerous outdoor activities, ancient thermal baths, and a historic town center.

A JOUREY THROUGH HISTORY

Bormio’s ancient core is rich with frescoed buildings, towers, churches, fortifications, and old farmhouses that bear witness to centuries of history. Its strategic importance for connecting with Northern Europe attracted the interest of powerful entities like the Republic of Venice, the Duchy of Milan, the Free State of the Three Leagues, Napoleonic France, and the Habsburg Empire. One notable trade route, the Via Imperiale d’Alemagna, connected Valtellina with other parts of Europe. Once a simple mule path, it passed through the Fraele Towers, built in 1391, whose ruins can still be seen on the road from Bormio to Livigno.

The Artistic Jewel of the Historic CentER

Autumn is the ideal time to explore the historic center’s attractions: few tourists are around, and the sunny days still offer a very pleasant climate. The itinerary can start at the heart of Bormio, Piazza Cavour, better known as Piazza del Kuerc (meaning “lid” in the local dialect) after the 14th-century structure—a kind of trapezoidal, amphitheater-like canopy—where gatherings and judicial proceedings took place in the past.

Behind the Kuerc, the 14th-century Torre delle Ore (Clock Tower) rises, adorned with a sundial, various crests, and a painted clock. In the same square stands the Collegiate Church of Saints Gervasius and Protasius, completed in 1641, which houses notable works, such as ancient frescoes from 1393 depicting Christ Pantocrator, the Madonna nursing the child, apostles, and prophets—some of the oldest in the town. Also noteworthy is the Lamentation over the Dead Christ (17th century), a sculpture set of seven wooden statues carved by Giovanni Pietro Della Rocca.

The small, deconsecrated Church of Santo Spirito, located at the start of the central Via Roma, is often called the “Sistine Chapel of Bormio.” Built before the 14th century, its interior is adorned with 15th-16th century decorations dedicated to the Trinity and the Holy Spirit. The vaulted ceiling, frescoed in the 16th century, features depictions of the Trinity, the Apostles, the Virgin, the Evangelists, the Church Fathers, and the Prophets.

Combo, the Farming District

Remaining within the religious theme, another must-see sacred building is the Church of Sant’Antonio, also known as the Church of the Holy Crucifix. Located across the Frodolfo stream in the Combo district—one of the five neighborhoods that make up Bormio—this area historically hosted agricultural activities, as evidenced by the numerous remaining rural buildings. The exterior of this place of worship is simple and linear, while the interior is richly frescoed with 14th- and 15th-century works. These depict the Passion of Christ, scenes from the life of Saint Anthony the Abbot (to whom the church is dedicated), and the Coronation of the Virgin by the Trinity.

To reach it, you must cross the Combo Bridge, an arched structure built directly on the rock. Its distinctive form dates back to 1591, and in the 18th century, two shrines were added. On the left is a shrine dedicated to St. John Nepomucene, a saint who protected against floods; on the right, there is a depiction of the transport of the Holy Crucifix to Bellpuig in Catalonia. This event took place in the 17th century when the sculpture of the Crucified Christ from Bormio—having survived three fires unharmed and believed capable of miracles—was transported to the Catalan town.

WHAT TO VISIT

Bormio’s history and evolution are well documented in the Civic Museum at Palazzo De Simoni. Built in the 17th century, this museum houses archaeological artefacts and art pieces. Highlights include a wooden door with carved iron hardware.

LOCAL CUISINE

Bormio is also synonymous with authentic, bold flavors: game meats, cheeses, honey, and grains skillfully combined to create traditional dishes. Like the delicious pizzoccheri, made with buckwheat and prepared with potatoes, cabbage (or Swiss chard), butter, and Casera cheese. To add flavor, there’s the indispensable pestèda, a mixture of black pepper, garlic, and aromatic herbs (each family in Valtellina has its own closely-guarded recipe!). Also irresistible are sciatt, fritters—again made with buckwheat flour, but with a melted cheese center—served with chicory or red radicchio. Another must-try is polenta taragna, made by mixing cornmeal and buckwheat flour, topped with butter and cheese like Bitto or Casera. The tasty taròz is prepared with boiled potatoes, onions, green beans—or sometimes pumpkin—flavored with butter and, of course, Casera or Bitto cheese. Finally, don’t miss bresaola and slinziga, another regional cured meat, and bisciöla, a local dessert made with dried fruit, butter, eggs, and honey.

Where to eat

To sample these and other delicious dishes, here are two reliable spots. Ristorante Vecchia Combo, located in the Combo district: a traditional restaurant offering excellent homemade cuisine accompanied by fine local wines. Osteria de i Magri, in the town center, is set in a rustic space once used as a stable and cellar; it serves traditional dishes as well as some innovative options, including seafood dishes.

After the meal, both venues will likely treat you to two local digestifs, each strictly “made in Bormio.” The first is Taneda, named after the local dialect word for the flowers of Achillea moscata, also known as Erba Iva, an Alpine plant used to produce this digestif. The second is Braulio, with a fascinating history that you can learn more about by visiting its dedicated museum on central Via Roma.

A wine tour

The Braulio Cellars tour lasts about an hour and is an incredibly engaging experience. Francesco Tarantola Peloni, a descendant of Francesco Peloni, who created the Braulio amaro in 1875, guides visitors with expertise and passion through the labyrinthine family cellars, explaining each phase of production. This begins with gathering roots, flowers, berries, and medicinal plants from the heart of Stelvio National Park and infusing them in a hydro-alcoholic solution at room temperature for at least 30 days. Then follows the addition of sugar and caramel, and aging in Slavonian oak barrels.

However, the recipe for this amaro has been closely guarded over generations of pharmacists and master herbalists and remains secret, with only four ingredients disclosed: Wormwood, Achillea moscata, Juniper, and Gentian. As for the total botanicals used in Braulio, some say there are 11, others claim 13, while others insist on 15. The truth will never be revealed, leaving us only to savour its unique and unmistakable flavour.

Gastronomic Shopping, and More

Still on Via Roma, at number 89, you’ll find La Sceleira, where you can buy honey, preserves, jams, flours, mushrooms, cheeses, and cured meats

Traditional cured meats—like bresaola and slinziga—cheeses, pizzoccheri, honey, wines, and amari are specialties at Il Salumaio Boscacci, in business since 1934-

Those with a sweet tooth will find delectable treats—like buckwheat cake, blueberry cake, or walnut cake—at the Le Bonette bakery and pastry shop.

Valtellina is known not only for its excellent cuisine but also for its jewellery, especially the distinctive fishhook-style earrings traditionally given to newlyweds as a blessing for happiness and prosperity. These earrings, crafted by a local artisan in gold or silver in various designs and sizes, are available at Gioielleria Valentino.

Wellness in Bormio

It’s no coincidence that the name “Bormio” comes from the Gallic term Bormo, meaning “hot spring.” Since Roman times, this location has been known for its thermal springs, first mentioned by Pliny the Elder in his Natural History.

Today, Bormio boasts three thermal centres catering to all needs. Bormio Terme, located in the heart of town, offers various relaxation pools, including the new “Stelvio” pool, a 25-meter swimming pool, a 60-meter waterslide, Turkish baths, a bio-sauna, saunas, and a therapeutic area affiliated with the national health system.

Bagni Vecchi and Bagni Nuovi are two facilities that form part of QC Terme Bagni di Bormio. Set amidst an extraordinarily beautiful landscape, Bagni Vecchi is an ideal place to take a “dive into history” with its Roman baths, dating back to the 1st century BCE, the “Archduchess Baths” named in honor of the Archduchess of Austria who spent summers here, as well as Medieval and Imperial baths. These baths include an iconic infinity pool carved into rock, offering unforgettable views over the valley. For a fully regenerative stay, guests can stay at the QC Hotel Bagni Vecchi, with direct access to the spa and 41 rooms furnished with period furniture and romantic exposed beams.

Bagni Nuovi, attached to a five-star Art Nouveau-style hotel with 82 rooms and direct spa access, features a variety of thermal options that wind through a large outdoor park and indoor areas. Highlights include the “Gardens of Venus” with a restorative path, the “Grotto of Neptune” offering a detoxifying journey, and the “Baths of Jupiter” and “Baths of Hercules.” The “Saturn Pools” are also notable, featuring underwater music and pools with varied water temperatures.

The Valtellina Wine Route

A journey focused on taking it slow wouldn’t be complete without sampling some local wines. For this, we suggest a detour along the Valtellina Wine Route on your way back—67 km linking Tirano to Ardenno. This route passes through historic villages and the region’s distinctive, steep terraces, where grapes are cultivated to produce unique wines. One standout is Sforzato, a wine emblematic of local viticulture, made from the Chiavennasca grape.

For a delicious stop, Ristorante del Wine Hotel San Carlo Relais & Spa in Chiuro offers expertly crafted local dishes paired with excellent Valtellina wines.

WHERE TO HEAR THE ROAR OF THE STAGS

To listen to the love calls of the stags, you can choose a guided excursion where experienced guides will help you see (and especially hear) this natural spectacle in all its glory. Among the most suitable destinations are Valfurva, Val Zebrù, and the already mentioned Val Rèzzalo, all located around Bormio. In Val Rèzzalo, you can also dine and spend the night at Rifugio La Baita.

WHERE TO SLEEP IN BORMIO

Hotel Meublè Sertorelli Reit is just a short walk from the historic center. It offers simple yet comfortable rooms with a modern design, furnished with pieces made by local artisans. The breakfast buffet is plentiful, featuring a wide selection of both sweet and savory local products.