Salerno, a coastal city nestled between the Amalfi Coast and the Sele Plain, boasts a millennia-old history. Once Etruscan, Samnite, Roman, Byzantine, Lombard, Norman, and Angevin, the city flourished under various influences. In the early Middle Ages (9th century), it became home to the Salernitan Medical School, reputedly founded by an Arab, a Jew, a Latin, and a Greek. This institution was the first in the Western world dedicated to the study of medicine, laying the groundwork for modern universities.

In the 19th century, during the Bourbon reign, Salerno earned the nickname “Manchester of the Two Sicilies” for its thriving textile industry. During World War II, in September 1943, Salerno was the site of the Allied landings. By February 1944, it briefly became the capital of post-fascist Italy, hosting the first Italian government until the liberation of Rome in June 1944.

What to See

Historic Center

Start your journey on Via dei Mercanti, now a bustling shopping street, and reach Larghetto San Pietro a Corte, a Roman thermal complex turned medieval church and cemetery, later the private chapel of Lombard Prince Arechi II. During the Middle Ages, it served as the parliament and venue for Salernitan Medical School graduations.

Salerno Cathedral

Built in the Norman era, this Romanesque cathedral features a Mediterranean-style portico. Its stunning Baroque crypt houses the relics of St. Matthew, Salerno’s patron saint.

Minerva’s Garden

This botanical garden, home to 300 medicinal plant species, once supplied remedies for the Salernitan Medical School. The garden’s terraces, connected by a long staircase, offer breathtaking views of the sea and historic center. Visit the herbal tea room to enjoy aromatic herbal infusions.

Arechi Castle

Once a fortress for Prince Arechi, this castle features crenelated walls and towers offering panoramic views of the city. Inside, the medieval museum displays weapons, coins, and ceramics from the Lombard era.

Medieval Aqueduct

Nicknamed “Devil’s Bridges,” this 9th-century structure once brought water to monasteries. Legend has it the aqueduct was built in one night with the devil’s help, and passing by at dusk might reveal spirits!

Art and Architecture

Via Botteghelle, Via dei Barbuti, and Vicolo della Neve: Picturesque streets in the old town.

Palazzo Pinto: Home to the Provincial Art Gallery, featuring works from the Renaissance to contemporary periods.

Rione Fornello: Admire vibrant street art through the “Muri d’Autore” project.

Modern Landmarks: Salerno has been redefined by architects like Zaha Hadid (Maritime Terminal), Ricardo Bofill (Crescent), and Santiago Calatrava. Don’t miss Piazza della Libertà, the largest seafront square in Europe.

Lungomare: A picturesque promenade lined with palm trees, offering views of the Gulf and Amalfi Coast.

Where to eat

Salerno’s cuisine emphasizes seafood, even in street food. Must-try dishes include Spaghetti alle vongole and scialatielli ai frutti di mare as well as anchovies and tuna from nearby Cetara, available in various forms (e.g., colatura di alici). Don’t miss the buffalo mozzarella from the Sele Plain as for dessert, try the “Scazzetta” from Pantaleone on Via dei Mercanti.